best camcorder for 9 year old image
Jack
I have a Panasonic DMC-FZ28 digital camera. When I video my 12 year olds soccer game, it's always very blurry unless I keep the zoom all the way out. But then I can't get any close up shots of just her or her teammates. I'd like to zoom in to some foot work or individual players doing some awesome moves or taking shots on goal. Is there a special setting that I should set the camera at to take video that is clear and close up? Any help would be appreciated.
Answer
Hi Jack, and welcome to Yahoo!Answers:
Since you are asking this in the Y!A Camcorders section, most of us here will be quick to tell you that you are using a digital photo camera that's mostly designed for still photos, with "video mode" added as a convenience feature, not a primary use.
Shooting video with a point-&-shoot or DSLR camera is always a compromise. And during video mode, very few cameras like yours have decent "Image Stabilization" (you might also be zooming into the "digital zoom" range, which makes things always look worse, detail-wise and anti-shake-wise).
For action shots or "shots on goal" I'd recommend just sticking with the Lumix's strengths in photo-mode: High Speed Burst Shooting (11-13 shots per second). And turn OFF the auto-focus feature, which is probably "hunting" during your video shots, especially when zoomed-in. It will also interfere with steady focus during action still shots. (Learn to pre-focus for the average distance to the soccer field, then you won't have focus lag to deal with.)
There is a "Sports Mode" setting on your Lumix, so if you aren't adept at manual shutter speed and exposure settings, try that first. (It probably won't help in video mode, as few still-photo cameras have sophisticated shooting mode options for video operation.)
And lastly, all non-tape digital cameras at the consumer level use high-levels of compression to store video footage, which drops over 75% of the actual frames & uses mathematical algorithms to store & rebuild "approximations" of the missing frame info. This is the main reason they produce blocky/blurry action sequences, especially with close-up detail from zoomed-in images. (Zoomed out images have more grass & sky, which is easier to compress & decompress, since the color and detail repeats so much.)
Shop around for a good new or used mini-DV format camcorder (I buy them on eBay all the time for under-$100, with careful shopping from reliable sellers). Canon sells their current HV40 (and occasionally their older HV30) camcorder for around half-price for factory refurbished models on their Shop Canon USA website. Older non-HD Canon, Sony, and JVC mini-DV models shoot even better action footage (less compression, since HD uses almost 4-times the image data) and you can still get models with 16:9 widescreen modes to fit modern HDTV set screens.
hope this helps,
--Dennis C.
Â
Hi Jack, and welcome to Yahoo!Answers:
Since you are asking this in the Y!A Camcorders section, most of us here will be quick to tell you that you are using a digital photo camera that's mostly designed for still photos, with "video mode" added as a convenience feature, not a primary use.
Shooting video with a point-&-shoot or DSLR camera is always a compromise. And during video mode, very few cameras like yours have decent "Image Stabilization" (you might also be zooming into the "digital zoom" range, which makes things always look worse, detail-wise and anti-shake-wise).
For action shots or "shots on goal" I'd recommend just sticking with the Lumix's strengths in photo-mode: High Speed Burst Shooting (11-13 shots per second). And turn OFF the auto-focus feature, which is probably "hunting" during your video shots, especially when zoomed-in. It will also interfere with steady focus during action still shots. (Learn to pre-focus for the average distance to the soccer field, then you won't have focus lag to deal with.)
There is a "Sports Mode" setting on your Lumix, so if you aren't adept at manual shutter speed and exposure settings, try that first. (It probably won't help in video mode, as few still-photo cameras have sophisticated shooting mode options for video operation.)
And lastly, all non-tape digital cameras at the consumer level use high-levels of compression to store video footage, which drops over 75% of the actual frames & uses mathematical algorithms to store & rebuild "approximations" of the missing frame info. This is the main reason they produce blocky/blurry action sequences, especially with close-up detail from zoomed-in images. (Zoomed out images have more grass & sky, which is easier to compress & decompress, since the color and detail repeats so much.)
Shop around for a good new or used mini-DV format camcorder (I buy them on eBay all the time for under-$100, with careful shopping from reliable sellers). Canon sells their current HV40 (and occasionally their older HV30) camcorder for around half-price for factory refurbished models on their Shop Canon USA website. Older non-HD Canon, Sony, and JVC mini-DV models shoot even better action footage (less compression, since HD uses almost 4-times the image data) and you can still get models with 16:9 widescreen modes to fit modern HDTV set screens.
hope this helps,
--Dennis C.
Â
I need to find a video camera for skateboarding?
lawrence
Nothing real expensive. Its for my 12 and 14 year old who loves skateboarding.
Answer
Consumer level HD camcorders have 4 problems. 1) Blurry, fuzzy, out of focus areas closely around people in videos taken by consumer level HD camcorders. 2) Any movement, even a wave or lifting an arm, while in front of a recording consumer level HD camcorder, results in screen ghosts and artifacts being left on the video track, following the movement. Makes for bad video, sports videos are unwatchable. 3) These Consumer level HD camcorders all have a habit of the transferred to computer files are something you need to convert, thus losing your HD quality, to work with your editing software. 4) Mandatory maximum record times - 1 hour, 30 minutes, 8 minutes, 3 minutes â four different times advertised as maximum record time for some consumer level HD camcorders. No event I have ever been to is that short. Either take multiple camcorders or pack up with out getting the end of the event on video. Not to mention, but the computer you upload your HD files to jas to have at least a 1 GB video card and a separate Audio card that can support Direct X 9 technology, you normal every day computer has massive troubles with HD video. Consumer level HD camcorders interpolate the video. This means they take one frame, make up the next 4 or 5 frames, take a frame and repeat this, over and over, for the remainder of the video, every video it takes is like this. With a MiniDV tape camcorder, record 60 or 90 minutes ( camcorder settings), 90 seconds or less to change a tape and record for 60 or 90 more and repeat till you run out of tapes.
You can get a Canon ZR960 for $250. It is a MiniDV tape camcorder, has a MIC jack. You will need a Firewire (IEEE1394) card ($25 to 30) for the computer and a Firewire cable (less than 10) to be able to transfer video to your computer. To say this is not HD, think about this. It would cost in excess of $3500 to get a HD camcorder that could equal the video Quality of a $250 Canon MiniDV tape camcorder.
http://www.canon.co.uk/For_Home/Product_Finder/Camcorders/High_Definition_HD/HV30/index.aspx
Consumer level HD camcorders have 4 problems. 1) Blurry, fuzzy, out of focus areas closely around people in videos taken by consumer level HD camcorders. 2) Any movement, even a wave or lifting an arm, while in front of a recording consumer level HD camcorder, results in screen ghosts and artifacts being left on the video track, following the movement. Makes for bad video, sports videos are unwatchable. 3) These Consumer level HD camcorders all have a habit of the transferred to computer files are something you need to convert, thus losing your HD quality, to work with your editing software. 4) Mandatory maximum record times - 1 hour, 30 minutes, 8 minutes, 3 minutes â four different times advertised as maximum record time for some consumer level HD camcorders. No event I have ever been to is that short. Either take multiple camcorders or pack up with out getting the end of the event on video. Not to mention, but the computer you upload your HD files to jas to have at least a 1 GB video card and a separate Audio card that can support Direct X 9 technology, you normal every day computer has massive troubles with HD video. Consumer level HD camcorders interpolate the video. This means they take one frame, make up the next 4 or 5 frames, take a frame and repeat this, over and over, for the remainder of the video, every video it takes is like this. With a MiniDV tape camcorder, record 60 or 90 minutes ( camcorder settings), 90 seconds or less to change a tape and record for 60 or 90 more and repeat till you run out of tapes.
You can get a Canon ZR960 for $250. It is a MiniDV tape camcorder, has a MIC jack. You will need a Firewire (IEEE1394) card ($25 to 30) for the computer and a Firewire cable (less than 10) to be able to transfer video to your computer. To say this is not HD, think about this. It would cost in excess of $3500 to get a HD camcorder that could equal the video Quality of a $250 Canon MiniDV tape camcorder.
http://www.canon.co.uk/For_Home/Product_Finder/Camcorders/High_Definition_HD/HV30/index.aspx
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